Dufton Thursday 28 May 2015
Start: Middleton in Teesdale
Finish: Dufton
Miles walked today: 22
Total miles: 590
What a day! Wild waterfalls, vertiginous views, flooded footwear and ailing alliteration.
I'm walking at 8.30 and following the River Tees to the west. West, you might ask, shouldn't you be headed north? Well, yes, but the Pennine Way does a sharp left turn for a day to take in some spectacular scenery before turning north again.
A nice surprise early on - I meet Stuart again. He too is headed for Dufton, which means we both have a long walk ahead.
What is it about barbed wire? I don't get it. At one point there is a field of sheep to the left, fenced with a double strand of barbed wire on top. Trees and the river are on my right, leaving a quite narrow path. It would be all too easy to catch clothing, back pack or skin on the wire, which is also at a child's eye level. Surely ordinary wire would be equally effective? Enough moaning, as I meet two gentlemen out for a walk on the hills, looking for spring gentian. One of them, Brian Carter, asks about my walk and kindly makes a donation to the fund. What a nice man. I, of course, forget to take a photo.
Low Force and High Force are two waterfalls which are very easy on the eye. As the river is full, the water is cascading down through the rocks with great energy. After another hour I reach Cauldron Snout, an altogether different scale of waterfall. The Tees pours down from a great height and is truly spectacular:
The wind is blowing constantly from the west, and now the path rises up through Maize Beck. A boggy few hours are spent with the Tees on my left and the wind pushing me back. At one point my left boot goes under, and fills with muddy water. It had to happen sooner or later...
There are places where the path scrambles over boulders and streams need crossing as they join the Tees. Some of these tiny tributaries spring right out of the rocks from dark places.
I knew that the long slog would be rewarded, and I was not disappointed. Suddenly the desolate moorland disappeared, and spread out before me is a deep, narrow valley: High Cup Nick. In the distance is the lush Eden Valley, and beyond that the mountains of the Lake District. It is truly a wonderful view.
A gentle descent takes me to Dufton youth hostel. The hostel is a delight. I pop over to the pub for a pint and some wifi, then return for dinner at seven. And... they do breakfast :)
Angela made a comment on my fund raising page (thank you so much) about my "wonderful blog" - are you reading the same blog I'm writing, Angela? Good to know I'm up to six readers if so :) Makes tapping away on my phone worthwhile.
