LEJOG 2015
Crediton Sunday 03 May 2015
Start: Okehampton
Finish: Crediton
Miles walked today: 19
Total miles: 146
The Youth Hostel is very good. It even has wifi - with a good connection. There was only one other person in the dormitory (which slept eight).
In the morning I made myself a coffee, and compared notes with a pleasant man from the Midlands. A retired electrician, he was spending a few days walking on Dartmoor.
By 8.00 I was walking. A tough day, the lanes and paths were not only tacking either side of my chosen direction, but the brown contour lines on the map were also much too close together. At one point I went over, not taking enough care on slippery stones. No harm done, but a good reminder to myself be careful...
A day also of intermittent rain. Wet weather gear on... rain... rain stops... get very hot... gear off... rain starts... wet weather gear on... you get the idea.
I duck into the Mare and Foal at Yeoford for a pint. Cries of "Lands End to John o'Groats!" go up from the locals, all watching Chelsea v Crystal Palace. It seems like I'm not the only end to ender who has stopped for a pint...
After seeing Hazard get a very dubious penalty, and score, I wander into Crediton. Stopping at the first bench I come to, I Google for accomodation and phone Taw Vale B&B who have a room. Silvia and Peter make me very welcome, and have time to make me a coffee. They have been running their B&B in their lovely house for twenty years, and have a wealth of experience and stories.
Tiverton Monday 04 May 2015
Start: Crediton
Finish: Tiverton
Miles walked today: 15
Total miles: 161
A couple of things from yesterday: A very kind woman offered me a lift into Crediton. She had a car full of kids, but took the trouble to stop. I didn't accept, of course. And in a tiny lane I saw a yellowhammer stepping out his courtship dance to his intended. This tiny bird has a bright yellow head, while his mate is less colourful. The male spread his wings and hopped towards her. She played hard to get. He was persistent, until I walked past and spoiled their fun.
Silvia's kipper fillets got me off to a good start, and I set off for the relatively close Tiverton. I rescued a slow worm warming itself on the tarmac at Shobrooke. The next village, Thorverton, was picture perfect, then my route climbed up high above the Exe valley, with stunning views. A sharp descent saw me join the river Exe, and the rest of the day's walk was through woods and meadows - and sewage farms - following the course of the river into Tiverton. Great excitement here - a launderette - then a 15 minute stroll to Chestnut House B&B.
I got a message - and a donation - from Gordon, who lives near Northampton. I suspect he's a Chelsea fan, as he didn't see anything dodgy with Hazard's penalty yesterday. Thank you Gordon, it's so good to get unexpected support :)
Ken is still busy suggesting beers to try. I'm doing my best, old sausage. Oh, and I took a picture of what I think is an orchid growing on a grassy bank today. Can you confirm, Chris or Tina? It's the pinkish coloured flower. The yellow flower is tiny, on a plant which looks like a nettle. Chris identified this once before, but I've forgotten... can you help again please, Chris?
Finally, it's good to know that the apostrophe is still roaming wild and free in Devon. As well as the pedant police :)
Taunton Tuesday 05 May 2015
Start: Tiverton
Finish: Taunton
Miles walked today: 23
Total miles: 184
Juventus lead Real Madrid 1-0 in the champions league semi final. It's halfway though the first half and I have one eye on the TV and one on my phone as I type this. Oh - 1-1 - Ronaldo has scored yet again.
Lying on the bed at Acorn Lodge B&B I also have an eye (yes, I do have three eyes) on the door as I expect Rigsby or Miss Jones to walk in. Acorn Lodge is lovely, it's just that it has a certain 1970s feel. And all the better for that.
My feet and legs hurt a bit today. What did I expect? I've just limped the short distance to Taunton town centre and had a bite to eat and a beer in the Black Horse. Taunton has a wealth of features, but the centre of town is a bit sterile. A lot of big names, but little local character.
The Grand Western canal was the basis of my route today. The beginning of the day is all tow path, barges, and dog walkers. Later, paths where the canal used to be, and finally lanes into Taunton. It's very windy, at my back, mainly, and there are some heavy showers. Another day of dancing around, trying to get my waterproof trousers on and off. At one point I disturbed a deer, and the birds were very vocal. The countryside is impossibly green, the trees are now almost fully in leaf.
Denise has kindly confirmed that the pink plant in yesterday's photo was indeed an orchid. She sees lots of the same where she lives in Kent. Thanks Denise!
Update: Chris says it's a broad leaved marsh orchid, and the other flower is a yellow archangel.
Street Wednesday 06 May 2015
Start: Taunton
Finish: Street
Miles walked today: 24
Total miles: 208
A day of wind, sunshine and showers. At least the wind was still at my back.
Rigsby and Miss Jones - Lionel and Marlene - serve me a delicious breakfast
and I start by following the Bridgewater and Taunton Canal, then later the River Tone. Herds of bullocks frisk around me in the lush green meadows alongside the river. I act all nonchalant and don't get trampled to death.
Late in the morning I catch a glimpse of Glastonbury Tor (a conical hill topped by the roofless St Michael's Tower).
I had two objectives at Othery - get a beer and follow the lane into the heart of the Somerset Levels. The pub was shut, and the lane closed to all traffic including walkers. Apparently a bridge was down, and as the Levels are criss crossed by drains, there would be no chance of walking around. A choice: go back a bit and divert, or walk to Street youth hostel on a potentially busy road. For the sake of my feet, I chose the shorter route along the road. Not much fun, but I made it.
The youth hostel was quite a walk from the town, of course, but I needed food so made the journey. Exciting fact - having opened in 1931, YHA Street is the oldest YHA hostel still in operation today.
Cheddar Thursday 07 May 2015
Start: Street
Finish: Cheddar
Miles walked today: 15
Total miles: 223
Last night in the hostel there were four other people staying - a couple from Macclesfield doing a cycling tour of Somerset, and two Australian sisters doing the "big trip". The cycling duo were surprised at the strength of the wind, dodgy on two wheels. The Australian sisters had entered a draw for tickets to the commemoration of Anzac Day in Gallipoli, and been very fortunate to be picked. As well as seeing Turkey they had been to Paris and Ireland. They're currently doing a whistle stop tour of the UK which took my breath away. Just yesterday they had been in London (start of the day), Whitchurch (Jane Austin), Winchester (cathedral), and finished in Street. Phew.
Yesterday was a bit tricky, and I started today with sore feet and a slightly down feeling. Two things perked me up: a coffee (which I sipped as I walked to Glastonbury), and the sun, which makes a huge difference. By the time I reached the edge of Glastonbury I was feeling much more positive.
A woman had stopped her van and was taking photos of a tree. "It's a Foxglove tree, very rare." she explained. I took a photo (below) which isn't too good.
Today's route was across the Levels. Paths through meadows and the occasional lane. All rather pleasant. I came to a farmyard where a sign forbade me to continue. I needed to follow on for a couple of hundred yards to cross a drain and join a footpath. I didn't fancy going back, so went around the gate and followed a farm track onwards. There was a big solar farm, newly installed, and security cameras everywhere. A security guard called out and asked what I was doing.
"It's private land," he said.
"Oh. Sorry. I just want to get over the bridge to the path," I said.
In the end, he relented, and walked me to the bridge, and off the farm. During the brief walk he asked me what I was doing, and we ended up shaking hands and wishing each other luck. Nice guy, Nigel.
I noticed lots of yellow flowers along the drains and verges. Self seeded rapeseed? Anyone know? A short while later I sat for a few minutes at the side of the path. Birds were singing, the sun was shining, it was perfect. Put me in mind of:
At Rodney Stoke - a pub. And... it was open! Some locals asked about my destination, and later, eavesdropping, I learned that they were planning to attend the election count late tonight.
The whole election thing has passed me by, fortunately. It's going to be fascinating, whatever the outcome. I don't want to get all political, but humour me for a moment:
Play the video, stand up, raise your right hand, clench that fist tight, and sing along:
The people's flag is deepest red,
It shrouded oft our martyred dead,
And ere their limbs grew stiff and cold,
Their hearts' blood dyed its every fold.
And so on. You get the idea :)
Cheddar has a youth hostel. I didn't realise until walking in and seeing the red triangle on the map. Feet not so bad as I write this in the hostel. I might have some company tomorrow, too :)
