LEJOG 2015
Inverness Friday 12 June 2015
Start: Auchnahillin
Finish: Inverness
Miles walked today: 10
Total miles: 906
I feel quite guilty today - only ten miles walked...
I'm glad I've camped once (so far) in Scotland but I didn't sleep too well. It was quite cold and a bit noisy.
"I've got that nasty cough dear, and you have a habit of talking to me all night long, what shall we do tonight?"
"I know, let's go camping! "
At 2.00 am the night before at the hostel in Aviemore three men decided to turn in. One of them had a weird respirator which made a strange noise. They were bikers. I thought about saying something... and decided not to.
Tent packed away, and fully woken by Margaret and Tom's coffee, I was walking in misty conditions by 7.30. As I approached Inverness (quite directly on roads I'm afraid) the sun came out and I was able to drop my pack at Market Brae Guest House and search Inverness for some breakfast ...
Inverness entertained me for a few hours until Jim's flight landed and he got off the bus at around 3.30. Lovely to see him, of course.
In the evening Jim suggested a game of pool and the loser would buy dinner. He's not so daft, my son. Best of three - he let me win one...
We tried a couple of popular places to eat, but, unsurprisingly, they were all booked solid. Luck took us past a busy tapas bar and we squeezed into a corner. The food was delicious and the place had an energetic and fun atmosphere. Perfect. Jim 1 - 0 up :)
Evanton Saturday 13 June 2015
Start: Inverness
Finish: Evanton
Miles walked today: 22
Total miles: 928
Jimmy and I are chatting to Terri in the quiet bar of the Balconie Inn. The other bar is heaving, but calmer now than when the football (Ireland v Scotland Euro qualifier) was on. (Do you remember John from the 7th of June, cycling with his bad leg. I really hope he's in Dublin and enjoyed the game). Food is rushed hither and thither, drinks appear at tables and the vibe is one of organised chaos - pure brilliant.
Terri expresses her surprise that I've walked over 900 miles to enjoy the Balconie's hospitality - "Get tae ****!!" Quite. My feelings exactly. To once again quote Winston:
"This is not the beginning. It is not the end of the beginning. It is not even the middle. But it could be the beginning of the end."
Terri's thumbs are a blur on the keypad of her phone. She's donated to the cause! Then her friends Kimberley and Barry follow suit. They seem impressed and make Jim and me feel very good.
Our evening started well - for Jim. He beat me at connect four (again) which means dinner is on me. I'm going to have to think of something for tomorrow evening where I have a chance of winning - a quiz on sixties children's TV shows, perhaps?
In the morning we walked across the Kessock bridge to leave Inverness, just as a big ship was entering the river Ness, and then followed the shore of Beauly Firth. It was damp and chilly, but not the downpour we had feared. Striking north took us to Conan Bridge and then Dingwall. Jim (Mr Healthy Eater) entered a shop and got an apple, a banana and a carrot (I kid you not)... I followed him in and purchased a bag of liquorice allsorts. If I'd known Jim was going to castigate me all afternoon about the evils of Bassett's delicious sweets and their dire effect on my digestive system - I'd still have eaten them :) (As I type this I'm eating the complimentary shortbread in our room just to annoy him. Not because I'm hungry or anything.)
Near our destination of Evanton Fiona cycled past and stopped to talk. An end to ender on two wheels, she had two more days to go. Fiona said she stopped so often during the day to talk to people that she often reached her overnight stop around nine in the evening. At this point we have a good view of the Cromarty Firth and can see distant oil rigs waiting to be deployed or dismantled.
Kenonymous has again excelled himself on my fund raising page - even going to the length of fining himself for a late entry. And C&N have again put a spring in my step :)
Tain Sunday 14 June 2015
Start: Evanton
Finish: Tain
Miles walked today: 17
Total miles: 945
Yesterday and today's earworm:
Jimmy is improving on Johnny Cash's lyrics:
"I shot a man in Reno,
Just to watch him diet"
as we walk through woods towards Alness. The path isn't that easy, and we stumble up to a high deer fence, beyond which are a couple of houses and some furiously barking dogs. To our right is a gate, from which a track leads in the direction we want to go.
"Can I help you?" asks a man the other side of the fence. I explain that we'd like to get over the gate and procedures down the track.
"You can't do that! This is my house and garden!"
I think he's exaggerating to be honest - a couple of cottages lie to one side of the track. He begrudgingly tells us how we can detour, and we do so.
Later in the morning, and for the rest of the day, we get glimpes of the oil rigs in Cromarty Firth. Tiny lanes take us to Tain, and Dunbuis B&B.
Jim and I watch the England game (won v Slovenia away 2-3) while relaxing and dozing for a pleasant couple of hours before eating at the St Duthus Hotel. We play hangman to see who pays for dinner... who won? Answer tomorrow.
Brora Monday 15 June 2015
Start: Tain
Finish: Brora
Miles walked today: 24
Total miles: 969
Who won hangman last night? Jim and I decided that it would be difficult to get a definitive result so... he paid for dinner. That's as close as I came to winning one of our wagers.
When we left the B&B (too early for breakfast) Jim went back into the centre of Tain to get the 7.25 bus to Inverness (and his flight back to London) and I walked in the opposite direction towards the Dornoch Firth Bridge, along the A9. It has been wonderful to see Jim and have some company.
My destination is an address just before Dornoch. Ten years ago I met Jimmy MacKay in Helmsdale and his sister Heather contacted me in March this year to say that sadly he had passed away. She said to call if I was passing so I did. Heather and her partner Ian made me most welcome, and Heather cooked me a delicious breakfast.
Heather used to sing in a band, and is now a nurse, and Ian used to be a lighthouse keeper, having been stationed at many of the famous sites in Scotland. I can imagine Heather singing to Ian:
Thank you both for making me so welcome.
The route through Dornoch to Loch Fleet is on quiet lanes. For a while I'm walking next to the loch, and am lucky to spot a seal in the water close to the shore. After Loch Fleet I am forced to follow the A9 to Golspie, not that pleasant an experience, so while marching along I compose a country and western ballad:
Oh the A9 is mighty fine if you're in a big high wagon,
It's pretty good if you're behind the hood of a shiny new Volkswagon,
But it's no big treat if you're on two feet as the traffic thunders by,
Do I dare suppose that their eyes aren't closed - have I even caught their eye?
Well, you get the idea with that...
I reach Golspie unscathed and buy some chips. As I sit near the sea I'm joined by a flock of seagulls who stand nearby or swoop over me. I toss the last few scraps onto the grass and in a blur of wings the gulls clean up in about five seconds.
From the ridiculous to the sublime - there is a path along the shore from Golspie to Brora.
Away from the A9 it's perfectly quiet apart from the gentle lapping of the waves, and the calls of many different birds. None of which I can identify - sorry. Dunrobin Castle is still looking a bit Disney. These last two or three hours of the afternoon's walk are just perfect.
At Brora I stumble upon the lovely Bay View House B&B which has a guest lounge loaded with goodies for the tired traveller. And... relax.
Latheron Tuesday 16 June 2015
Start: Brora
Finish: Latheron
Miles walked today: 29
Total miles: 998
The two young women sitting in the coffee shop in Helmsdale are admiring my legs: "That's a fine tan you have on your legs there." I move to give them a better view. The second one says, "Is that a Scottish tan?" "Some of it is," I reply. It's a familiar problem for me. Young - and not so young - women are unable to resist my lean good looks. I'm going have to carry a stick to fend them off...
My day starts with a walk along the beach from Brora. Golden sands stretch almost as far as I can see. The sky and sea merge almost seamlessly in a palette of blues and greys with touches of creamy white where the sun threatens to break through. I have to join the A9 (the road follows the shore quite closely most of the time) but am able to get back onto the beach again for a while before scrambling over the railway back again onto the road. Helmsdale is much as I remember it. I think of Jimmy MacKay while drinking my coffee and eating a slice of apple pie outside the cafe in the sun. I couldn't stay inside - it might have been too much for all the females within.
The afternoon isn't so much fun. It's road all the way to Dunbeath, where I'm hoping to find a bed for the night. The forecast is for rain in the afternoon, and sure enough it arrives. I walk on the right side of the road, where the verge is wide enough to jump onto when cars and trucks go past. Some of them give me a free shower. Most drivers are good and give me a wide berth, but not all. I make appropriate gestures when necessary.
At Dunbeath I am directed to a B&B / campsite. The woman at reception seems to think I'm an imbecile for not booking a room but I remember my top ten walking tips (number four from the 30th of May) and smile politely when she tells me she has no bed. I could camp but it's pouring down. Her husband gives me the business card of Blackcroft Highlands B&B three miles further north and when I call they answer their phone and confirm that they have a room. There's no pub or shop but... they can provide an evening meal. Result!
I arrive at Margaret and Brian's home very wet and bedraggled but they take great care of me. Later in the evening I see that Ken's mates John and Martin have donated - thank you so much :)
Kenonymous's latest:
"Have a jar of Skull Splitter this eve. It says it's got a tight smooth head with hints of red & amber - that's you, that is!! (It also says it has a fruity, juicy character....so maybe not.)"
Thanks again O S
I will probably head for Wick tomorrow. Back in 2005 I took a different route and missed Wick. Another name to tick off the list. Not far now...
