LEJOG 2015
Dunkeld Sunday 07 June 2015
Start: Perth
Finish: Dunkeld
Miles walked today: 15
Total miles: 804
So! The plan is to get to Blair Atholl, launch myself up Glen Tilt to Inverey, and tackle the Lairig Ghru pass through the highest point of the Cairngorms to take me to Aviemore. The only problem is that the remote and tiny youth hostel at Inverey is closed. I'll have to cadge a lift from Inverey to the nearest habitation a few miles away at Braemar, and do so again in reverse the next morning. I'm not going to wild camp unless it's absolutely necessary. A point in my favour is that the weather should be kind to me as the next few days will take me through the most remote scenery on my LEJOG.
Perth to Blair Atholl is a very long walk, so I'm having two short, lazy days. The sun showed itself today, and the scenery along my route was pleasant if unspectacular.
At one point I met a cyclist walking towards me, pushing his bike. John is cycling 500 miles from Wick to Dublin for charity. On his first day he came off, injuring his leg, and has been reduced to pushing the bike up hills, and riding down them. A lesser mortal would have given up, but John is made of sterner stuff. He has a date to watch the Ireland v Scotland euro qualifying match next Saturday in Dublin and is determined to keep it.
I can't stop eating. Full Scottish breakfast this morning, roast beef lunch, and (don't tell anyone) al fresco fish and chips tonight by the river Tay. Plus various snacks when I can fit them in - my Snickers habit is barely controllable. It's ok so long as I'm walking and burning up the calories. I'm hoping to stay somewhere with scales in the bathroom to see how much weight I've lost. Maybe a stone or so, at a guess. I'll never keep it off when I return home.
The afternoon sun shows Dunkeld at it's best. A tiny town next to the river Tay, with its own cathedral, it's yet another hidden Scottish gem. As is the Bridge B&B which takes me in.
Another Reddit thread - someone gave me gold!! Thank you. Also I now know what the Proclaimer's mean by "haivering".
Blair Atholl Monday 08 June 2015
Start: Dunkeld
Finish: Blair Atholl
Miles walked today: 19
Total miles: 823
It's so tough out here on my travels. Tonight, for example, at the modest Atholl Arms Hotel (third last photo below) my room is missing a trouser press and the hairdryer is much too powerful for my silken locks. And there's a sheep on the loose...
And this morning was hard. Doreen's breakfast was so delicious it was a struggle to get my walking speed up to my customary 3.3 mph.
A new take on the barbed wire front today - it's the second wire down, not the top one. What IS the point? Before I can get too worked up, I'm distracted by a view of distant mountains with snow on them. You can just about see it in the photo below.
I did reach Pitlochry eventually around midday and took the opportunity to get my hair cut (I know, so what, but this is my blog), and grab a coffee and a sticky bun. Mmmmmm. But I feel I've let Dorothy (a Scot through and through) down as I didn't get a scotch pie. I'll make that a priority for the next day or two.
As I approached Blair Atholl a cyclist loaded down with panniers went past and asked if I was an "end to ender". I caught up with him at the first shop in Blair Atholl and we compared notes. His end to end takes much less time and is quite different but it's so good to talk to a kindred spirit.
I checked in at the Atholl Arms Hotel where the receptionist is first class, and understands immediately that breakfast at 8.00 is a bit late for me and happily arranges a packed lunch instead.
Thank you C&N so much for your continued support. It is metaphorically downhill from now on but the next few days have far too many brown lines on the map for me to start coasting ;)
Finally, a moment of serendipity - Kenonymous has recommended a beer:
"With luck, should be in the Atholl Arms Hotel tonight - are you? If so, get tucked in the bothy bar & grab a glug of their Braveheart Ale from their own brewery in Moulin. Go on - don't be an Atholl now! ;-)"
which is at the bar! And it was excellent. A shame you weren't here to try it yourself, OS...
Linn of Dee / Braemar Tuesday 09 June 2015
Start: Blair Atholl
Finish: Linn of Dee
Miles walked today: 23
Total miles: 846
My alarm goes off at 6.00 and the sheep in the room doesn't wake. I'm up and walking half an hour later. The weather is perfect, clear skies, not too hot, and no wind. The route along Glen Tilt is quite straightforward and the scenery is magnificent. Early on there is a section through woods where there are many trees down which block the path, but soon I'm out in the open. The higher mountains have patches of brilliant white snow looking to me like the markings on an orca.
I spy a walker ahead of me and walk for a while with Liz. She's Dutch, and exploring the Cairngorms. Also wild camping, which puts me to shame.
A little later I hear a noise rather like a bird's call but much louder, right next to me. It's a fawn, with mum nowhere to be seen. We're both a little startled, but I grab a picture before it wanders off.
I'm trying to resist the temptation of my packed lunch. The internal dialogue is heated, but I persuade myself to get over the fords marked on the map and then stop. The first one is easy, I fill both boots at the second, and wade carelessly through the third.
It's a pleasant spot to have a break. The sun is shining, and it's warm, so I rest my boots and socks on the grass to dry and tuck into roast beef sandwiches. The path joins the road at Linn of Dee, from where it's a six mile walk to Braemar youth hostel. My intention is to thumb a lift, and either get a taxi or thumb it back in the morning. About twenty minutes before the road I meet a man out bagging Munros. He says that he's tried to do the same, and ended up walking the whole six miles. I reach the road, walk ten paces, hear a car, put out my thumb, and am taken on board by Tim, Lucy, and their dog Woody. They have been walking Woody and live the other side of Braemar. They take me all the way to the little town, an act of kindness which is much appreciated. Thank you! The perfect end to my day's walk.
The youth hostel is busy at Braemar, with people of many different nationalities all doing their own thing. Some bagging Munros, some passing through, and a few cyclists. My only concern is how to avoid a six mile walk tomorrow morning before tackling a long day over the Lairig Ghru pass.
I think I'll wait until my alarm goes off before worrying too much...
Aviemore Wednesday 10 June 2015
Start: Linn of Dee
Finish: Aviemore
Miles walked today: 27
Total miles: 873
What a day!
It's been perfect. Weather, scenery, donations (hit the target!!), phone calls, people, and a Kenonymous gem of a beer. What more could I want?
6.15 am saw me walking from the youth hostel in Braemar, and concerned that I would have to walk the six miles back to Linn of Dee. After twenty minutes or so I was distracted by a herd of deer crossing the road. There must have been in excess of fifty, all jumping the wire fence on one side and wandering off into the woods opposite.
A new shiny silver car came along, and I did my best with my thumb but to no avail. Fearing the worst, I heard another vehicle, who pulled in a little further up the road. The driver of the mini bus was having a quick smoke, and agreed to take me as far as he was going (school run - they start early) but after asking me about my day's walk took me all the way to Linn of Dee. A good start to the day. Thank you Eric Middleton.
The Lairig Ghru pass is an easy walk if the weather is kind, and nothing compared to what Munro baggers get up to, but it's still quite a challenge. I met two women who I'd seen in the hostel last night. One was carrying a large, heavy crowbar. It turned out that Martine and Dani were repairing the path above the Corrour Bothy, work which would take several months. They would spend a few days at a time doing the work, walking up into the mountains each morning, and returning the hostel in Braemar at night, before having time off at home in the west of Scotland and Inverness. A good job on a day like today - the sun was out and there was no wind. Lovely.
I passed a party of twenty or thirty young people - Duke of Edinburgh's Award I think - who didn't seem to be enjoying themselves as much as I was. The mountains were magnificent. I lunched at the Pools of Dee, and soon after walked across snow.
As I decended towards Aviemore, I got a call from Christian at the Basingstoke Observer. I could be in the next issue! He was very positive and asked lots of questions, which could generate some more donations. This is all down to Kenonymous who has been busy drumming up support.
The Youth Hostel is quite big at Aviemore, and busy. Groups of young people are cooking and having fun. Which is nice...
Lots of donations today:
Thanks to Pete - I hear you're a married man now.
Thanks to Susan and Jim who were cycling near Aviemore.
George and Chris at the hostel kindly donated - thank you both.
And a special thanks to Derek & Lynne for pushing the total over the target of £1000
Kenonymous is keeping up the sterling work on the beer front. I can't name today's beer, but a photo of it is below...
Auchnahillin Thursday 11 June 2015
Start: Aviemore
Finish: Auchnahillin
Miles walked today: 23
Total miles: 896
Here I am at the excellent campsite in Auchnahillin. The sun is shining, it's warm, and there's no wind. Pot noodle and tinned fruit for dinner. Tom, Margaret and their dog Dexi have taken me under their wing and made me a coffee and given me a tiny homemade stove for hot drinks and food - I really don't deserve such kindness. Lovely :)
I wasn't sure where to stop tonight when Tom drove past and offered me a lift. I politely declined - of course. He explained that there was a campsite a mile or two further on and I thought I ought to spend at least one night under canvas in Scotland.
Today's walk was on cycle paths and there was a bit too much tarmac but I'm really close to Inverness and a rendezvous with Sonny Jim.
The cloud formations were stunning over the Cairngorms and the sun shone all day. Carrbridge had an elegant bridge - hence the name I suppose - and I stopped at Tomatin for a snack at a general stores. The distillery tempted me but not today.
A short hop to Inverness tomorrow!
