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Day 5 Weds 04-05-2005

Rutherenbridge to Trelawney

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The trouble with camping is that there's no breakfast (unless you get it yourself), and no incentive to get up because as soon as you do, you have to take the tent down and pack it. In the rain potentially. And if the tent is at all wet, it needs to be aired and dried later, or it will go mouldy. And there's no loo!

Despite all these huge hassles, I got up and was walking well before eight. I followed the Camel river valley through lovely wooded scenery. The valley climbed up, towards Bodmin moor, and on my right rose steep woods, with the river Camel bubbling along below me on my left.

I had my wet weather gear to hand, but the day was quite bright, with occasional glimpses of the sun. I was paranoid about my back-pack getting wet, and had a cover over it nearly all the time I walked.

Bodmin Moor

I reached St. Breward at lunchtime, and stopped for a tuna sandwich and a shandy. I perused my maps, and decided not to walk over Bodmin moor towards Launceston. The weather was misty, my leg hurt, it was already lunchtime and I needed to start early to have enough time to get over the moor. Besides, the map showed too many brown lines for my liking, I had already found out that brown lines meant hard work. There would be plenty of contours to come, if I managed to get further north.

The alternative was to strike north, and follow lanes and a cycle route. The walking was easy, but I had a lot of ground to cover to get to anywhere suitable to spend the night, and by evening I was tired. I passed a promising looking pub, the Rising Sun, in Trelawney, but no-one answered my knock at the door, it was just before opening time. I went round in circles looking for a campsite, or B&B, and in Altarnun asked a man with a lovely shire horse if he knew anywhere I could camp. Of course he did the Rising Sun! I went back, they were open, and pitched my tent in their field.

Ham egg and chips and a couple of pints revived my spirits, and I talked to a family from Launceston. Jim and his wife moved from Liverpool about twenty years ago. Given his origins, I asked if he watched the reds get the better of Chelsea last night. He didn't watch the game! I must have found the only scouser who didn't follow Liverpool or Everton!

I retired to my tent, and struggled to settle. Later, I stuck my head outside, and above me was the full glory of the universe. I hadn't seen a starry sky like that since I was a boy, due to light pollution, and I marvelled at this cosmic light show.